I don’t know about you, but I obviously can’t afford to buy every watch in the world—and I certainly don’t need to own them all. Sometimes, simply looking at a watch, trying it on, and testing it even once is more than enough. I’ve been closely involved with mechanical watches for over six years, both professionally and personally, and I’ve been fortunate enough to try countless models and gain a much better understanding of them. Here’s my top 10 list of watches that every watch enthusiast should try at least once in their life. Why? These watches offer a unique feel on the wrist, allow you to delve into a model’s history, or can even change your perspective on mechanical watches.
Where can you test watches?
If you’re wondering where you can try on watches without buying them or even intending to, know that several options are available, even for casual watch enthusiasts. Jewelers, in particular, will be delighted to welcome you without obligation, and single-brand boutiques aim to introduce you to a brand and familiarize you with it firsthand. However, it’s at watch events that I’ve had my best experiences. Indeed, you can not only meet many people who share the same passion, but also exchange ideas and try on other enthusiasts’ watches in a relaxed atmosphere.
Top 10 watches you absolutely must try
The selection of exceptional mechanical watches is vast. So, which watches do I think you absolutely must try, even just once? Here’s my top 10, featuring some of the most fascinating timepieces in the world of watchmaking.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, the world’s first luxury sports watch in steel
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak gave birth to an entirely new genre of watchmaking and is rightfully considered an icon that continues to captivate watch enthusiasts worldwide. More than 50 years after its launch, all the leading manufacturers continue to draw inspiration from its style. This watch not only brought Audemars Piguet and designer Gérald Genta lasting fame, but it also revolutionized the watch industry: in 1972, sports watches were still considered tools and were therefore clearly distinct from the more refined and prestigious luxury watches made of precious metals. During the quartz crisis, Audemars Piguet sought to create something new and revolutionary to revive mechanical watches – and so, practically overnight, Genta created the world’s first luxury sports watch in steel. This timepiece is a true work of art that combines refined aesthetics with an industrial style. Every watch enthusiast should have worn and tested this watch at least once in their life.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus, a response to the Royal Oak
The next watch is also a design masterpiece. The Patek Philippe Nautilus, likewise, was conceived by Gerald Genta, and it’s a timepiece that must be worn to understand its captivating allure. Some watch enthusiasts may be disappointed, however: its case and bracelet are simpler and more rectilinear than those of the more elaborately designed Royal Oak. Combined with the magnificent gradient dial, which has a calming effect when viewed, all the components of this steel sports watch form a perfect whole that requires no alteration.
The Rolex Day-Date, the legendary watch of presidents
I don’t know if it’s the same where you are, but in Germany, gold watches are rather controversial. However, I can only recommend that every watch enthusiast hold, and even more so wear, a gold watch at least once in their life. Not only because I believe you have to experience things to have an opinion, but also because the look and feel of gold watches are extraordinary. The watch that best conveys the fascination with this precious metal on the wrist, and which, in my opinion, is the quintessential Rolex, is none other than the Rolex Day-Date. Despite its substantial bracelet and robust case, the presidential watch remains elegant and sophisticated. With its typical Rolex elements, such as the fluted bezel and the magnifying glass over the date, as well as its exclusive features like the day display and the hidden clasp, this model is, in my eyes, the epitome of Rolex.
The Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, a special mechanical watch
I have a very special connection to the following watch, even though it doesn’t fit my style, I’ve never owned it, and I probably never will. However, it was the first watch I wrote about and marked my debut as a watch writer in 2019. When I had the opportunity to visit A. Lange & Söhne’s headquarters in Glashütte and try on almost all of their models, this was the watch that most excited me. This timepiece, which proves that the watchmaking industry is still capable of creating masterpieces in the modern age, is none other than the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. This watch was launched in 2009 and combines analog and digital time displays. The use of large jumping numerals for the hour and minute display, a novel constant-force escapement, and the bold combination of classic elements with a modern time display were major innovations in the world of watchmaking. While few of us have a budget of €50,000 to acquire a watch, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is a timepiece that every watch enthusiast should experience at least once in their lifetime.
The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, more than just a Moonwatch
Compared to the Zeitwerk, the Omega Speedmaster might seem almost boring. But sometimes the most boring watches are also the best. It’s no coincidence that the Omega Speedmaster Professional remains one of the most important and popular watches of all time. Detractors say that no one would be interested in this watch if it weren’t connected to space and NASA and if it hadn’t walked on the moon. As a Moonwatch owner, I believe that while the watch’s history certainly contributes to its appeal, it doesn’t fully explain it. More than 50 years after the first moon landing, its design remains relevant, even though it has changed very little. Whether you’re a space enthusiast or not, the Omega Speedmaster is a watch that every watch lover should experience at least once.
The TAG Heuer Monaco, or the golden age of the automobile
It’s difficult to limit oneself to just ten legendary watches, as there are so many. Although I much prefer the Rolex Daytona, I decided to include in this selection a model that, while not visually appealing to me, left a lasting impression when I wore it. When I had the opportunity to slip a TAG Heuer Monaco onto my wrist, I was immediately transported to the golden age of the automobile, the 1960s and 70s. An era I only know through documentaries and films, certainly, but one that this timepiece perfectly conveyed to me, like a time machine.
The Santos de Cartier, between tradition and modernity
There’s no doubt that the Santos de Cartier is a legendary watch. But the reason I wanted to discuss this modern benchmark for versatile timepieces is that it clearly distinguishes itself from its counterparts in one key aspect: thanks to technical details like the Smartlink and Quickswitch systems, Cartier offers the owner of this timepiece a simple wearing experience that requires no tools or horological expertise. Not all watch enthusiasts possess the technical skills (or the inclination) to change or shorten their own straps. While other renowned traditional watch brands seem to resist such innovations, Cartier proves that tradition and modernity are not incompatible.
The Rolex Submariner
Dive watches are among the most popular timepieces – and what watch could represent this category better than the Rolex Submariner? The most copied and duplicated model in the world, it is the very embodiment of the dive watch. Competitors worthy of the name must deliberately design their dive watches in a completely different way to avoid comparison. The Rolex Submariner proves that it takes very little to create a brilliant design. Once again, and as with the Omega Speedmaster, the models that seem the most understated are sometimes the best. The Rolex Submariner is one of those watches that absolutely must be tested precisely because of its simplicity and linearity.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was originally designed for polo players. To protect the watch from shocks and impacts, the case could be rotated, placing the dial down and the case back up (hence the name Reverso). To be honest, I have absolutely no interest in polo. But this feature makes the Reverso unique, especially considering what JLC has done with it over time. While the ability to engrave the case back might seem obvious, the fact that you can admire a second dial or the movement by flipping the case proves that Jaeger-LeCoultre is not simply honoring tradition, but is also incredibly creative.
The Hublot Big Bang, a different vision of watchmaking
Hublot is still often viewed with a critical eye and debated by watch enthusiasts. But by putting one of the brand’s watches on your wrist, you understand much better what makes its timepieces so unique. Although I have a preference for the Classic Fusion, I only truly grasped the fascination Hublot holds when I had the opportunity to wear a Big Bang. It’s an imposing, extravagant, and unconventional model. But that’s precisely what makes it so fun. Watches don’t always have to be suitable for everyday life or understated—sometimes they can also be extravagant and bold. If versatile watches are a bit like beautiful cars for everyday wear, the Hublot Big Bang is more like a green Lamborghini that you only take out of the garage for a few hours on the weekend. Every watch enthusiast should try a Hublot Big Bang, regardless of their opinion on this type of watch or brand, because it is a completely different way of wearing a watch.
